Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Rush EastCoast trip plan

Cosas a hacer para east coast trip:
- Preguntar a team si me necesitan en persona.
- Avisar al team de planes de trabajar remotamente July 6, 7, 8, 11.
- Avisar al team de Technician Training July 12-13.
- Avisar a Echo si la visito el Viernes July 8th. --- SENT
- Pedir posada a Sebas/hermana Mazariegos, del 6-8.
- Comprar vuelo one-way, SFO -> Boston, July 1st --- DONE
- Rentar carro en Boston, July 1st-July 5th (o find rideshare) --- DONE
- Bookear Megabus BOS - NYC, July 8th (T) 18:30 -> 23:00 --- DONE
- Bookear Megabus NYC - WDC, July 9th (F) 23:59 -> 04:15 --- DONE
- Bookear Megabus WDC - DUR, July 10th (St) 23:10 -> 04:40 --- DONE
- Bookear Megabus DUR - CHA, July 10th (Sn) 15:20 -> 18:50 --- DONE
- Bookear Megabus CHA - ATL, July 11th (M) 08:20 -> 13:40 --- DONE
- Bookear vuelo DUR - ATL, July 11th (M) --- REPLACED BY BUS
- Cancelar vuelo SFO -> ATL (o cambiar por el de arriba) --- DONE
- Rentar carro WDC, July 10th 24h --- REPLACED BY SILVER LINE
- Rentar carro DUR, July 11th 24h --- DONE
- Get AirBnB in Charlotte, July 10th -> July 11th --- DONE
- Cancel/postpone dentist appointment on June 29th (650-969-1880) --- DONE

Tuesday, June 21, 2016

Deflate

Molding mood.

What molds it?

I haven't written recently.

But today I tried to dance. My body was reluctant. It observed others, and wanted to go in. It tried. But the music.... ahh the music was not. Cooperative. It felt like a bland hum. Even when beat came on, it felt dull. Slow, cheesy. My insides begged the music to rise to the occasion. But no. It was unexciting. My body did not deem it worthy. So I sat down, and tried to resonate with the beat coming in.

But even after Melissa encouraged me to dance, it still felt artificial. We danced a little, but my body did not find a pleasant sync. It... ground through the whole time I asked it to dance, but I barely enjoyed any of it. Fake... forced... I sat down. Then I tried again, then sat down again. And again. And about two or three more times.

The last parts had slightly better beats, but by that time my body was too disappointed to continue. My body felt sad, depressed, let down. It was reminded of past sad times. Of times when I liked a girl to splinters and wanted to dance with her, but neither did she want to dance with me, nor did I have any concept nor technique to do so. Or just to talk to her. Of times of rejection - when I wanted to spend time with a girl, I wanted to hug her, kiss her, and she would barely even tolerate my eye contact. Of my college attempts to reset my high school deserted social pattern with no success. Of times when I was asked for help on classes by a girl, and my heart would jump with such excitement, would create future worlds in an instant, and my whole self would devote to helping her, before finding that all she offered back was hurried gratitude. I always had a desire to help, a healthy layer of altruism that coated my shy, estranged need for care. A bitter seed I would never reveal. Not to others, to avoid showing myself as pathetic. Not to myself, for its taste would sting my face and eyes, and shed my useless tears.

I remembered the lonely afternoons at home, climbing the walls and the roof, trying to get as far away as possible from anyone else, painfully desperate for a private space to cry out loud. I remembered my awkward walks across and around so many dance floors, past so many attractive girls, when the music actually invaded my body but my shame would not allow it to dance. Self-restrained desires, lengthy remorse, helplessness about everything that seemed to matter. I felt sad and isolated again.

I had not felt thus in some time now. I'd gone at least a solid 18 months without feeling this. 6 months I received care and attention from a person, then 8 more months from another. Real care, happy times. But not lasting. That gets into another story. Then 4 more months, during which I focused on work, trips, and a few small transitions.

I had half-assumed that after receiving as much continuous care as this, my past sadnesses would've diminished, or even disappeared. And it has been so long now - I thought that time had allowed me to accept, heal, and move on. Alas, feelings do not obey reason. They remember all too well, and it seems that, unless there are emotional experiences very different from the ones I've already experienced in my 30+ years, time will sporadically bring me these episodes from time to time, always reminding me that my adolescence was awkward, painful, socially curtailed, and that I will never have the chance to go back and make it better. I will always keep the memory of a time of wasted potential, when I could've developed my self in drastically better manners, in ways that would not leave me aching to know, even now, how to properly establish a meaningful rapport with someone, anyone, even with people with whom I seem to get along amazingly. In ways that would allow me to speak up my feelings raw, even if only to close friends, instead of having to first coat them in thick, cold layers of objectivity. In ways that would perhaps now allow me to have *some* friends close to me. In ways in which perhaps I would prefer to keep on living every day with exciting goals, happy to build and create something, instead of always eventually coming back to the feeling that my life is already screwed up and cannot be fixed, despite the material evidence to the contrary (feelings do not obey reason), and secretly hoping that a soon, quick, and painless death would befall me and get me out of this freaking mess.

But I have you, words. I had missed you.
What say you?
What I feel.
Thank you.

Sunday, June 5, 2016

India 20th

Nuestro última día aquí. Pensamos tomar el bus mañana temprano a las 6AM a Periyar, Madurai, y de allí, si hay tiempo, tomar el tren de las 6:40 a Rameswaram. Llegaríamos poco antes de las 11AM, y tendríamos tiempo para buscar información, encontrar hostal, visitar la punta de tierra hacia Sri Lanka. Podremos ver el sol ponerse allí, y tal vez leer una parte apropiada del Ramayana.

Mientras, mis ansias de encontrar Internet han disminuido. Estoy aquí porque sí, y estaremos en algún otro lado luego. Los específicos no importan tanto, pero con objetivos claros como los que tenemos, podemos averiguar los medios en el camino. Haciéndolo con cada paso.

Aquí realmente cada día es igual. Mantras a las 5:15, mantras a las 6:00, Yajna a las 6:30 (es bonito tirar los palitos al fuego. Swaja!), desayuno a las 7:15, mantras a Vishnu y a Lalita a las 9 (con las palabras más largas que he visto, que aún en sánscrito intento seguir). Satsang a las 10:30 (pero nadie va), meditación a las 12. Almuerzo a las 12:45, Satsang a las 14:30 (tampoco ocurre), meditación a las 16:00, Bhajans a las 16:30, té a las 17:15 (y qué rico té), arathi a las 18:00, mantras a las 18:10, cena a las 18:40, y Satsang (éste si ocurre) a las 19:15. Lights off a las 21:00 (pero las cosas siguen funcionando).

Siento calma, aunque también letargia, tal vez por el calor. El clima está realmente generoso; las nubes han cubierto el aire de calentarse mucho casi todo el tiempo, excepto ayer por la mañana, cuando mi papá secó nuestra ropa recién lavada. Todos, incluso el clima, han sido generosos con nosotros aquí.

Mi papá sigue sin comer, pero muestra mucha más energía que la que yo. Impresiona. El es muy especial.

India 19th

Mukthi Nilayam

Estoy acostado en la cama cómoda del cuarto #16; un delgado colchón con patrón de flores de colores encima de una plataforma simple de metal, de algún latón, pintado de verde oscuro. El ventilador gira furioso sobre nosotros y la brisa generada es fresca, más tal vez innecesaria; el clima nocturno está fresco y seco bajo la luna casi llena. La cortina de franjas coloridas a la par de la ventana abierta con cedazo va y viene, como permitiendo respiros del cuarto mismo.

Mi papá lee su libro prestado, hojas empastadas entre cubierta naranja plástica transparente, sobre las cuevas de Patal Bhuvaneshwar. Lo disfruta en muchos niveles. Conocimos al autor, aquí en Mukthi Nilayam, el lunes, al llegar. No sabíamos que había visitado las cuevas, y cuando le preguntados sobre ellas, nos contó que tenía un libro sin publicar que tal vez podría prestarnos. Que si no sabíamos que él mismo lo había escrito, ni que él conoció al más reciente descubridor de las cuevas, un militar de apellido Taylor. Dados estos recientes descubrimientos, junto con el hecho que pensamos ir hacia las cuevas nosotros mismos, mi papá está inmerso en un tobogán de emociones y anticipación que le insta a contarme citas específicas de él cuando encuentra algo que lo emociona.

Mañana es nuestro quinto y último día aquí en Mukthi Nilayam, y este poco tiempo ya me ha hecho sentir más calma y claridad. El silencio en la meditación permite sentir serenidad, y la convivencia en bienestar abre mi sonrisa y alegra mi percepción de las personas.

No hemos conseguido acceso a Internet, como Wi-Fi o Sim Card, pero eso se ha vuelto una prioridad secundaria. Mi papá y yo nos hemos entendido en que estamos aquí, y no sabemos qué va a pasar, pero ambos estamos contentos así, y haremos lo mejor posible por pasar un buen tiempo y aprovechar muy bien el viaje juntos.

India Tren 16th

Voy montado en un porta equipajes del tren. El aire está fresco, aseado por la lluvia, ventilado por tres ventiladores sobre mí.

India 16th

Chennai fue una experiencia algo distinta a la que esperaba. Urbanamente: la ciudad menos cosmopolita, más abandonada (o con aire de tal). Abandonado no es la palabra correcta. Tal vez diré sucia y con aire de pobreza, aunque no me debería sorprender tanto.

Era Domingo y encontré poco comercio abierto. No es cierto - habían comercios abiertos, pero no encontramos SIM Card. Comimos McDonald's, caminamos por la ciudad, y un tuctuc nos dio un paseo por la ciudad por 1000 rupias, regreso al aeropuerto incluido. Luego avión a Madurai, sesión de preguntas con el Terminal Manager, taxi, y cuarto de hostal. Y aquí en el #121 de New College House hemos estado, salvo unos minutos anoche cuando salimos a comprar jabón. 5 rupias.

India 15th

Sobrevuelo el área de Chennai, esperando aterrizar. Pocas veces he visto un área con tierra tan árida. Y aún con su escasa vegetación, este es un jardín en comparación a las llanuras inmensas de polvo que separan a Delhi de aquí. Sin separaciones naturales ni accidentes que distinguieran el terreno, una tierra homogénea, si no fuera por los angostos caminos que la cortan.

Veamos a Chennai.

India 14th

Me encuentro viajando con mi papá en la India, buscando frescura, un alivio de la inagotable rutina en la que me zambullí desde hace más de dos años. No pretendo que tal viaje sea una solución, ni única ni periódica, a tal estilo de vida, que de cualquier modo no pretendo perpetuar. Pero dos años viviendo así no validan mi argumento más que mis ansias de una vida nómada, que poco a poco se acerca más a un recuerdo que a un deseo, a pesar de lo que me digo, de mis optimismos silenciosos, en los escasos momentos que me permito tiempo a mí mismo.

Aún así, siento una esperanza de encontrar alguna guía en este tiempo. Sea interna o externa, sea que sólo pueda ser interna, busco un faro que guíe mi barco, que por ahora sólo flota con la marea, e ignoro su potencial. Guíame, Vida. Ayúdame. No quiero dejarte ir.

India 25th

25 de mayo, 2016

Relax.
Or that I want to do.

These past few days have been awesome.

On the morning of the 21st in Rameswaram, we packed our bags and walked out at 10am to find milk. On the way to the trusty store that had bags of cold milk just like my dad likes it, I also found a SIM card place. The "1GB" that the SIM card I was sold supposedly had was exhausted after 120MB (so maybe they meant 1Gb?), so I needed a recharge. Luckily, I found an unlimited 2G data package during 28 days for 199 rupees, so I asked for a 210-rupee balance recharge in order to buy it myself, and have some leftover balance for any reason. But I saw the guy kinda stumble with what I was telling him, so I told him "I'm buying the 210 rupees so I can buy this package", and showed him the option on my phone. By that, he understood that I ALSO wanted the internet package, in addition to the 210-rupee balance. So I ended up paying 409 rupees total, though I only wanted the 199 data package. It worked great, though, and it was only $6 total, so it wasn't bad at all.

Then after buying and drinking a half-liter of nice cold milk each, we began walking to the train station in the wrong direction. 5 bearded men sitting on the sidewalk (or the shambles of concrete that resembled it) called at us, and told us to go in the other direction. I guess it was pretty clear we were foreigners and that we were headed to the train station, but their immediate candidness and helpfulness was a delightful surprise. We confirmed with them that the railway station was the other way, thanked them, I waved my head in Indian nodding style, and walked the right way to the station.

70 rupees and an hour later, we sat on the train back to Madurai, squeezed in between a family with 3 kids. They had extended out two dresses on the luggage racks, so we couldn't jump up there and lay down throughout the trip as we did before. Instead, we sat down on a bench next to the father and the older kid, and we stayed there for 5 hours. More people gradually came into the train and began shoving everyone to make space for themselves. There was some palpable tension and a few words in Tamil spoken in argument, but eventually everyone seemed content enough and seated.

Having internet access on the train made it much more informative. We found out that the place with the Naadi readings was closer to an earlier train station, so we got off at that one. We took a TucTuc there, and while we were heading there, we got a call from Mr. Kumar, asking us when we'd be there. "5 minutes", we said, and he agreed to cater to us then.

We waited for about half an hour in a small office until Mr. Kumar was able to attend us. In that time, my dad and I looked around at the Hindu god pictures all around us, and tried to identify them. We saw Shiva and Parvati in several forms, Durga also, and Vishnu, Lakshmi, Saraswati, Ganesha, probably Gayatri, and also Kali, sticking her iconic tongue out, about to kill Shiva. I readied a voice recording app on my phone to have my own recording besides what he offered to record for me, and talked with dad about what we were going to hear.

When Mr. Kumar came in, we listened intently. He brought in two long and narrow wooden slates tied to a collection of dry palm leaves cut up in the exact same shape with some rustic string on their four corners. There were some very neat and very unintelligible markings in black, similar to pencil, on the leaves, 5 lines of such in each leaf, top to bottom across the narrow side.

Right then I began recording, and he then explained to me what was going to happen. He was going to start recording and telling me what the Naadi leaves said. He would then give me a CD with what he recorded, and if I wanted to know anything in more detail, we could then request other specific cantos about my life (e.g. wealth, family, love, etc). We nodded at most of it, and then he began talking. The prediction itself is in the 50min recording.

After the reading, as most soothsayers I know by person, he said that to ward off specific problems later in life, I would need to pay him N thousands of rupees for him to pray and dedicate a specific copper thingy for me, and then I'd need to wear that for all of my life. He also said I should pay 3800 rupees (or 3008, I didn't quite get that) for them to do a Pooja for me, and so that... I don't know... to ward off something else or something. I was ready to respectfully deny his offer, but my dad suddenly was enthused about the whole situation, and he said we'd do it.

- "How much is 3800 rupees?", he said.
- "About $50-$60".
- "Oh, that's great! Let's do it!"
- "We don't have 3800 rupees".
- "But I have dollars!"
- "You only have $100 bills.
- "That's fine! This is for you!" And he smiled at me warmly.

I did not deny him, so we did the Pooja. Mr. Kumar opened up a side door to a hotter room (ours had A/C), and he said they were getting the Pooja ready. A few minutes later, they asked us to go in.

The room was probably about squarish in shape, but the large center of it was completely taken by an altar made of either adobe or stone, filled with circular and rectangular slots of many sizes for candles, bronze and wooden thingies, pictures, flowers and herbs, incense, and a thick smell of many fragrances I couldn't have distinguished if I'd tried. There were narrow hallways around the altar that made its way all around it, lined with pictures of various gods along the wall. It was a cocktail of pure hindu altar paraphernalia, and the sudden change in temperature added to its "shock" effect. The pooja was pretty much like this: 1) Mr. Kumar told my dad and I to do something. 2) We did that thing. 3) He and his helpers did stuff, like circle a candle around god pictures, throw flowers and plants on us, or rub red stuff or gray stuff on our foreheads. The instructions, as I remember them, went something like this:

- Pray to Agasthya.
- Take this candle over here and put it over there.
- Take this other candle over here and put it over there.
- Pray to Agasthya.
- Walk around the altar, touching the god pictures on each wall.
- Pray again.
- Put money in the little bronze jar ($100 + 8 rupees)
- Pray again.

Praying on demand seemed overtly??? artificial to me, but I didn't think much about questioning their protocol during their ceremony. So at least I closed my eyes and thought of good stuff. He then asked to take a picture of us, but I didn't quite like the idea, so the picture was taken only of my dad and he, next to the altar.

My dad asked to take a picture of the Naadi leaf, so they brought the leaf back, and I took a picture of it. It was clearly a different leaf than the one he had showed us before (the first writings seemed almost function-like - no two points on the same line were positioned along the same vertical, while in the second leaf, the markings were "almost" character-like, but they looked like they "wanted" to be either latin letters or Tamil characters, but neither of them very much so. Quite certainly incredulous about at least part of what they had told us about the leaves and the "prophecies", but happy to have my dad so happy about the experience, I took a picture of the Naadi leaf, received a paper package with my zodiac and a CD recording of my reading, and asked for a TucTuc to take us to the Madurai train station.

So we went to the station, bought our tickets to Bangalore for 280 rupees (9 hours in a night train for $2 per person!). We still had about 4 hours before our train left at 23:50, so we walked out to see the Meenakshi temple, apparently a big attraction in the city, several blocks long and wide, only about 6 windy Madurai blocks away.

On the way, we saw a mishmash of shops that sold all kinds of stuff, bordering the muddy, weakly-lit, heavily over-used streets we stepped on. Even at the short distance it was at, we asked for directions once to guide us on a turn we weren't sure about when we reached a dead end.

Once there, we saw the enormous west gate of the temple - a colored horde of stone (or clay) statues piled up on top of each other in some symmetric fashion, easily 30m high. The security for the temple was fairly elaborate - it had a shoe holder, a TSA-like conveyor belt for our backpacks, a luggage holder for the stuff they did not allow (like our entire backpacks), and a complete external wooden hallway for people to walk through, a metal detector entry, and as foreigners, we were asked to provide passport information. Way more than I thought justified seeing a temple, but like at the airport, we followed protocol and went inside.

The temple was indeed spectacular. It looked rustic and ancient - the external wall surrounded a large square courtyard about 50m wide, and there were entire families staring at the 20m tall walls and columns, ornamented in bright colors or left in gray stone.

A further entrance on the southern side crossed the inner walls, which led to an area with a tall golden column on a stone altar, in the middle of a fenced-off area, next to a kneeling stone cow. This center altar was surrounded by a myriad of stone statues, most of which I did not recognize. Many of them were lion-like, boar-like, that of a lion eating a serpent with its penis fully on display (the lion's), and one could tell that some statues were not made with a cookie-cutter - each one of them had slightly different attributes - eyes slightly more apart, more teeth than the others, paws on its face, and so on. This temple was distinguished by its bright colors. Whether old or new, I could not tell. A few minor carvings of a dancing Shiva were also visible among the walls.

As we walked around, we saw there were areas only available to Hindus. Not only one, but several. The inner area itself was very large - we walked all the way around it, we saw rooms around us that looked like specific houses of worship for some god or another, some kind of library, altars tucked into tight niches, Hindus holding active ceremonies and chanting right there and then, and a large statue of Ganesha (or of some form that looked pretty close to it) of which pictures of were "strictly prohibited". We lost our sense of direction within it within it a few times, and by the time we managed to find the temple exit, we were on the other (eastern) side of the temple. Confused but content, we walked barefoot around the temple to the western side to pick up our shoes and backpacks.

My dad seemed tired, so I looked for some cold milk for him to drink. I could find none. The closest I found was the nut-based Badam milk, but he refused it (so I drank it instead). We walked back to the train station, but my dad seemed tired, so we stopped at a restaurant on the way back. It was pretty crowded, but two guys invited us over to their table, so we sat down and dined with them.

We weren't really hungry, so we ordered 2 lassis (because they did not have milk). The two guys ordered a full meal, with potatoes, lentils, naan, spices, and such. They seemed young - early twenties, casual - just two guys having dinner on a Sunday night.

They knew English pretty well, so we were able to have a full conversation. They were two medical students interning in Madurai. The chatty one was from Chennai, and the other was from Rameswaram. We told them we'd been there that same morning, and the first thing they asked was "Did you go to Dhanushkodi?" Encouraged by the question, I said "yes! That's what we went to see there, actually!" And we told them the full story of our walk to the end of the stretch of land, including our run-in with the police, my dad's tiredness, the beautiful stretch of land and sea, and how we found milk over there, but couldn't find it anywhere in Madurai. They said that indeed, milk was not a common thing for people to buy or sell in the area. Hot milk only, but we'd already seen and tried that on the streets.

Then my dad told them we'd be visiting the Patal Bhuvaneshwar caves up near Nepal, and they suggested a few other temples among the area. They mentioned one where a goddess supposedly was being chased by a hunter who wanted to rape her, so she climbed up to the top of the hill and prayed to a god (I think Shiva?), so he came down and killed the hunter. And so they built a temple there, end of story. Then my dad told them about his passion for India and for their great epics, and how he was looking for the Hrisavana, the story of Krishna's childhood. The guys mentioned the book was about 2000 pages long, and my dad just said "well, I just want to find it somewhere, and look at it!". And we kinda left it at that.

After pleasantly saying goodbye and paying our owed 105 rupees for 3 lassis, we walked back to the station and waited for our train to Bangalore. When it arrived, my dad said "let's get in as soon as it comes", so that's we did. To our pleasant surprise, this night train had sleeping bunks within a room kept cool by an A/C system - 3 beds stacked on each spot. As the first ones there, we each took one at the bottom, and pleasantly took our shoes off and lay down.

A few minutes later, a lady walks in and says "can you switch with me? I have a baby.", so I climbed up to the second bed tier and lay down there. A few minutes after, the train starts moving, and the ticket inspector comes in and talks to us, so we give him our ticket. He looks at it, and shakes his head negatively, talking to us in Hindi. He looks at my dad and me, and he tells us these are reserved seats, and that we have unreserved general seats. That made more sense, since our tickets had been as cheap as they were. So we packed up our stuff, put on our shoes, and began walking down the train wagons to the end, where the unreserved area was.

We must've walked at least down a dozen wagons, from A/C sleepers to non A/C sleepers to A/C chairs to non A/C chairs, finally to a wagon closed off with a metal gate, where we found a bunch of people lying on the floor, stretched out as best as they could in the meager space. We found some space right beside the toilets and sat there with our backpacks for about an hour, until the train stopped at a station and someone came in there, telling us all to get out of the train into the general section.

So we tried doing that. Our backpacks with us, we walked towards the end of the train, towards which other people were running. We were puzzled by it only momentarily. The wagons we were supposed to board were brimming full with people - sitting, standing, laying down, crammed against each other within the wagon, and about a dozen people were piled up outside the door, doing their best to push their way in, while the ones inside did their best to keep their own space intact enough for a bearable 9-hour overnight journey.

Those speaking Hindi and without luggage had little chance of getting into the crowded wagons, so us English-speaking foreigners with sizable backpacks could hardly expect to get inside. So we asked a platform officer what to do. He said "next train, three fifty", and walked away.

It was about 1:30am in Didigul Junction, and we weren't the only ones in that situation. Plenty other groups of people lay down on the middle of the platform floor, sprawled out, their stuff scattered around them arbitrarily, fully asleep. "When in India", we thought, so we found an empty corner to lay down on, set an alarm for 3:30AM, and went to sleep.

Well, my dad did. I tried for a bit, but began to feel uncomfortable. There were mosquitoes around us, and I tried to cover my bare arms by pulling them into my shirt. That left my chest uncovered, though, and my head laying on the concrete began to itch for some reason. Maybe it was purely psychological, but the thought of fleas creeping all over me didn't quite let me relax to fall fully asleep.

I guess it was good that I stayed awake, though, because with the internet connection I had, I checked up on the train schedule for our station. It turns out the officer had said "three fifTEEN", not "three fifty", as at that time a train in the same direction would reach our station. So I added an alarm at 3AM in case I was right, and tried to relax.

Next thing I knew, the 3AM alarm was waking me up, people were still laying around and walking around the platform, but there was a bit more movement going on. I looked around, played with my phone for a bit, and suddenly I heard a train approaching. People started getting up, everyone seemed excited, including those I *think* were also trying to board the earlier train. So I woke my dad up, we picked up our bags, and just got into the first passenger-looking wagon that we found. Many of them were also pretty packed, but one of them said "luggage", though it had benches and passengers inside it, so in we went. There were a few old people, a few men, a woman with a bunch of children, and a lot of empty space! We grabbed two empty facing seats, and looked around to see whether people told us to leave for any reason. They were fine, though.

Then one of the ticket people comes into the wagon and asks us stuff in Hindi. We respond in English and show him our ticket, to which he goes outside with another guy, and they discuss something about it. Then one of them tells us something like "station, you... next station, ten kilometers", gesturing distances and stations with his body. We say "ok ok", not quite knowing what he meant, get back in the wagon, see that everyone's OK with it, and stay there.

We weren't sure what their comment meant. Were we supposed to get off at the next station, which was situated 10km away? But the next station came and went, nobody told us anything, and the train kept rolling on. A little internet research later, I realized that the station we WERE GOING to arrive at initially (Bangalore Cantonment, written on our ticket) was NOT reached by the train we were in. THIS train would arrive at a station called Khrisharajapuram, 10 kilometers AWAY from that station. But for our purposes, that was peanuts. We just wanted to get close enough to Bangalore to catch a cab and move around the city.

And so we did. We changed our seats for empty overhead luggage racks, on which we lay on for the 9-hour duration of our trip. Nighttime disappeared as we slept the hours away, and I woke up to the steady sound of the rolling train and wind, along with the voice of a few children talking excitedly, and a few men's voices in the adjacent section, as they played cards. The wind was warm and fresh on my entire body, flowing right through the open barred windows.

Somehow we had changed, in a single night, from laying in premium but tight A/C sleepers, to the other end of the train squeezing amidst other sleeping people next to the toilets, to sleeping on a small station's platform at 2AM, to sleeping on a perfectly comfortable luggage rack for 9 hours, delicious wind refreshing us on every kilometer of the trip, and making our destination all the same. It was a magnificent ride.

I took a few pictures of the hurrying landscapes and the people around us. The mother was particularly colorful. She wore a yellow saree with a pretty pattern, simple and worn. Her kids around her seemed 7, 9, and 13 years old, and they mostly slept and watched the landscape move in between brief periods of talking between each other. What they talked about, I have no idea.

She opened up a large bag underneath and poured yellow rice from a pot into disposable aluminum plates, of which she had about 30 in a stack. She gave one to each of the kids, made one for herself, and they ate it by scooping the rice with their hands. I didn't notice, but they probably used their right hands.

The kid about 9 years of age asked me, gesturing, if he could join me up in the luggage rack. I said "yeah, come on up", so he climbed up and soon we were both sitting there, talking to each other about all sorts of stuff.

Unfortunately, I didn't speak Tamil and he didn't speak English, so we quickly got stuck. I managed to tell him my name, and he me his: "Evnuth Kumar". He wrote it on my notebook in latin letters, and I wrote mine as well. I tried to get a little more traction by using Google Translate to tell each other stuff, but that kinda failed. I translated a few basic things about us to Tamil, and he just read it, seemed to understand it, but couldn't really reply to it. So I found out how to use Indic languages on my phone, used Tamil, and asked him to write some. He tried to use it, but he was not familiar with the keyboard layout I had set up, so he couldn't really use it. In the end, all he wrote in Tamil was his own name (which didn't really translate to anything else), and then he seemed uninterested in doing anything else. He climbed back down and kept looking at the land.

Eventually we reached Bangalore at 12:30PM, and headed straight to our destination, Google Bangalore. The map mentioned it was 2km away, so we thought we'd walk it, rejecting all the TucTuc drivers offering us a ride. About 200m later, though, we realized that Bangalore streets weren't all that walkable. There was no noticeable sidewalk at all, and even the tightest corners of the street were all used by squeezing motorcycles and TucTucs. So when another TucTuc driver offered us a ride, we just took it for 100 rupees and told him where we were going. He began heading the other way, though, so I told him "hey, we're going over HERE", showing him the map. He then went "Oooooh! Oh ok, I know where that is, no problem".

He then made a U-turn right then and there, and drove in the opposite direction. Exactly where we had come from. Against traffic. And he did that for about 2km worth of a heavily transited street, all the way on the right, frequently swerving to avoid incoming motorcycles and other TucTucs. It was just like in the movies, but with less gunfire and swerving car crashes. What impressed me most was the reaction of the people coming towards us. No shouts, no gestures, no angry vibes. A nonchalant stare was all I saw from one of the motorcyclists. We weren't doing anything special. We were just driving the wrong way on a major artery during pretty heavy traffic.

Eventually he got on the "correct" side of the street again, and drove us to Google Bangalore. He told us it now cost 200 rupees. I said "hey, we did not agree on that". He argued something about police and other way, but I knew it was not our fault he had gone the wrong way in the first place. I wasn't really upset, though - he did a great job avoiding the traffic, and he did get us there fast. I was going to propose a counteroffer of 150, when suddenly my dad shouted at him in an *angry* tone, and said "NO! BAD! YOU DO NOT DO THAT, SIR!" And then he signed a cross at him - the kind that people do, sometimes jokingly, to ward off evil or vampires. It was a bit shocking to see him react so violently to such a small situation. He angrily said "just pay him, come on, let's go!". So I just took out what I had from my wallet, but I could only get 170 before I got to the 500 bills. I was going to take that out, but the driver was OK with that, and drove off.

Now Google Bangalore was a nice stop. I dug up my badge from my backpack, and that one thing hanging from my belt, despite my messy greasy hair, long unkempt beard, sweaty shirt, baggy pants, and large backpack with a plastic bag hanging off of it, was reason enough to get my dad and I inside.

The corporate complex we entered was clearly an elite, westernized area. Au Bon Pain, World Gym, and the Google logo were just unmistakable evidence. We climbed up the steps, went up to the Google building, went to the third floor, and had lunch at the cafeteria. Then we booked a room for 5 hours, grabbed coffee, milk, and pastries from the micro kitchen, and settled into our room.

That stop was a savior. That last night we had learned that the Indian train system had reservations, and that they seemed essential to guaranteeing a spot in the train. The tickets we had bought so far were unreserved tickets, and did not guarantee a spot at all. They allowed one to get into the unreserved wagons IF there was enough space, nothing else. We had another overnight train ride planned that night from Bangalore to Hyderabad, and another from Hyderabad to New Delhi that would take at least 22 hours. Booking reservations was essential to ensuring our arrival to these destinations on time.

So now with a room, a desk, electrical supply, a high-bandwidth internet connection, a whole day before the night train departed, a loose plan of our trip up north, and a micro-kitchen nearby, we got to work. We didn't quite know what we were doing, but at the end of our session, we had accomplished:

- Uploaded our pictures for the trip so far.
- Charged our devices.
- Ate and stuff.
- Emailed family and friends about our status.
- Successfully registered for an IRCTC account through the interface made for Indian residents only.
- Created a ClearTrip account.
- Wrote a list of possible train rides to take to get to Hyderabad and Delhi.
- Researched how to get to the Patal Bhuvaneswar caves.
- Mapped out trains from Delhi to Kathgodam.
- Decided on a plan and contingencies to get to the caves and back.
- Booked a train ride from Bangalore to Hyderabad, got waitlisted.
- Booked a train ride from Hyderabad to New Delhi, got waitlisted.
- Printed our (waitlisted) reservations.
- Replied to comments in a bug and checked up on a pending urgent task, plus relevant emails.

We guessed "waitlist" meant that our reservation on the train was not confirmed, but it was the best we could do at that point. My dad told me to get the 2-tier A/C sleepers (3-tier was too short to sit on), but even at that "premium" level, our two BAN-HYD and HYD-DEL reservations cost us about $30 and $60, respectively (for both people). No buyer's remorse.

After freshening up as much as we could and eating/drinking what we needed, we left the building and walked to the shopping mall on the other side of the street. The major artery reminded of me Blvd. Roosevelt in Guatemala, mostly because crossing it required planning out a path evading buses and motorcycles on our way to the other side.

The mall itself was a bit of a let down. We went there because my dad wanted to see some of those famed phablets that are not sold in the US. We couldn't find a single working mobile phone store, and the stores mostly focused on clothes, jewellery, and pharmacies. After wandering around for a bit though, my dad remembered he wanted a new soap, a comb, and a razor, so we got those at the pharmacy. We also bought 5 gel pens at the supermarket, and we left the mall as two satisfied customers.

Then a TucTuc took us to the train station for 400 rupees. Right after we'd agreed to the price, I remembered "man, I should've used Uber!", as it was one of the options in Google Search, and I'd never tried Uber in India before. It claimed to be half as expensive as the TucTuc, but we'd already agreed, so we took the TucTuc, and left the Uber ride for the next city.

Once at the station, I noticed I'd gotten a text message from the IRCTC confirming our two seats on wagon A-1, seats 4 and 6. So we got on the train, picked our seats, and rode from Bangalore to Hyderabad on the A/C tier for 9 hours. It was pretty comfy. I wouldn't say it felt as good as the night we slept on top of the luggage rack (THAT was refreshing), but we felt certain to get to where we were going!

Once in Hyderabad, I told my dad I wanted to try out Uber. So we did. And it worked great! The first one took us directly to Google Hyderabad. It took over an hour to get there, maneuvering and shuffling through heavy traffic all the way, and it cost $5.37. Given how shifty and windy and unordered the streets in Indian cities are, I'm honestly impressed at how well Google (and/or other companies) have managed to map out their routes so much in detail. Hats off to whomever's doing that.

Upon arrival at Google Hyderabad, I dug up my badge again and got us a room for the day. We ate and drank, used the bathroom, caught up on the status of our train for that night (we'd advanced a little on the waitlist), and sent out emails. I did a little more checking-up on work stuff, my dad read up on his Kindle. In the end, we found a fitness room and showers, so we were able to really freshen up and get dressed with new clothes, which made a nice difference. We even got to ride the slide set up in the office, which was a lot of fun.

After leaving the office, we decided to go check out a shopping mall closer to the railway station to find more mobile devices my dad might be interested in. So we took an Uber there, and again, found out that they had very few mobile devices on display. He looked at some of them, but then we quickly exited the mall and made our way to the train station.

We started walking and went into some electronics stores along the way. But when looking at the time, I realized we didn't really have that much time left, so we took an Uber to "another" railway station, and I proposed that we took a local train from there to get the train station we actually wanted to go to, as an exercise in local public transportation.

The Uber driver had trouble finding the place, but after some help from the locals, he managed to drop us off right in front of it. Once in the station, we crossed the overhead pedestrian pass to buy a ticket on the other side of the platform, and the lady there told us "other side" as her directions to catch the train. It was 21:32 then.

At that moment, though, we saw a train arrive on the "other side" of the platform, so we ran on the overhead pedestrian pass to catch it. We didn't manage to catch it, which worried us some, but we were reassured that some people had remained waiting on that side of the platform, plus the schedule said the train should pass by at 21:39. We decided to trust the schedule, so we waited.

So we waited, and 21:39 came and went. Suddenly it was 21:45, and my dad began to get worried. "What if it doesn't come? What if we miss our train to Delhi?" I told him it should come any time, but he wanted to verify. But the lady to ask was on the other side of the platform, so he would have to cross the rails again.

- "Don't go to the other side", I told him.
- "I'll just be a minute!", he shouted, and he climbed down onto the train tracks, walked across them, and climbed back up on the other side, so as to cross faster.

And then he disappeared into the station. Not a minute later, I heard the train arriving, and my dad was still inside the station, out of sight. Eventually he heard them too, and he ran outside, rushing to cross the tracks again and catch the train. What he did not see was that there was another train approaching from the other side as well, and it was dangerously close to the station already. He had one leg going down, when a guy on the platform yelled at him: "HEY!", and pointed him towards the train. My dad stepped back, looked confused for a while, then decided to run up the overhead pass. Our train was already at the platform by the time he had reached the top, but he kept running. Right as he ran down the stairs, I stood at one of the doorways to prevent it from closing, and waited for him to arrive. He reached the platform just in time - the doors were about to close. Once inside, we almost couldn't believe we were in, but we'd made it. He had not gotten run over, he had reached the train, and we were on our way to take our long ride to Delhi.

Frases célebres:

25 de mayo, 12:23:00, Amla Junction, Madhya Pradesh
Mira! Estamos en no sé donde!
Franklin

25 de mayo, 12:44:56, Betul, Madhya Pradesh
Todo aquí tiene contami... no... condimentación
Franklin

India 21st

Today my dad woke up at 3AM, cleaned the bathroom, took a shower, packed his bags, and woke me up at 4:30 so I could get ready as well. We were about to leave Mukthi Nilayam, after 4 lovely days staying there sharing their meditations, chants, and food.

We still managed to join the chants at 5:15AM, the chants at 6:00 AM, the Prema Yajna at 6:20, say personal goodbyes to Amma, and catch the bus to Madurai at a few minutes past 7:00 AM.

One colorful bus ride later, we were in Madurai, sitting down at a restaurant having breakfast. My dad asked for two rations of milk, and I drank Masala milk and had some rice with three kinds of spices. 122 rupees later and some bad directions from the shop owners to get to the Naadi reader, we were walking through some ceremonial procession. It had men hanging from hooks attached to their skins on their backs and legs, placed on top of a moving car, and some other men had long metallic bars, of about 5-6 meters long, pierced through both their cheeks. Other people wore colors of orange, green, and yellow on their skin, and walked along with them. Colorful indeed.

We walked about 2km through the winding streets, frequently missing the turn or taking it too early. We managed to get a SIM card along the way for 1200 rupees, though, and then I got 8000 out of an ATM to resupply us along the way. Then I convinced my dad to get a TucTuc and to have them help us get there today. It turns out we were walking towards the wrong place. The TucTuc took us to the Nadii reading place - about 15-20km away, I'd say. The driver waited for us to finish to take us back, while we ourselves waited inside for them to finish some Pujja, then kind of bartered our way to "only" paying 1500 rupees for a single Canto reading, instead of the full 12+4 cantos at 1500 rupees each, plus the Mahasiva reading, 2500 rupees worth. 26500 rupees to supposedly know my entire future? My dad seemed less thrilled about it anyway, so we went with only the first Canto, he wrote down all my details on a piece of paper (dates, places, family members, relationship status, etc). It was like a Facebook profile on a piece of paper, plus my thumb print with purple ink. Supposedly there will be results to look at tomorrow.

We paid the TucTuc driver 800 in total for the ride there and back, plus the waiting. Once at the railway station, we got our tickets to Rameshwaram for 70 rupees, and we got in the train. It was about 12:15 by then.

At 12:30 almost-sharp, the train took off, and we found cozy overhead beds on the luggage shelves above the usual benches. Both my dad and I fell asleep. About 2-3 hours later, I woke up and started pacing our wagon up and down. We were crossing the bridge to Rameshwaram at the time, and the ocean water splashing against the rocks and platform, sparkling as the bright beach sun hit it from all angles, was a very pretty sight.

We arrived at Rameshwaram at about 4:30PM, at which time we walked out and found a TucTuc. He asked us where we were going, and we said "Dhanushkodi", since that's the only name that our low-res map has for the end of the piece of land left from the bridge that once joined India and Sri Lanka. The first TucTuc said "oh no, that's closed at 5PM", so we kept on walking. The second offered to take us to Dhanushkodi beach and back for 600, and we agreed. When we got to the beach, he said he'd wait for us for about half an hour, then we'd go back. My dad was adamant that we wanted to walk all the way to the end, though, and the driver didn't completely refuse it. He just said "I wait half an hour", while we said "we'll need more, at least two hours", and left it in that ambiguous state. That was at about 5:30PM.

3 hours later, we had walked past beautiful sunset and full-moonrise along a single long road, bordered by the splashing Indian Ocean on our right, the tranquil Bay of Bengal on our left, and remnants of houses, churches, temples, water tanks, and other buildings, whose desolate state we attributed to the effect of the Tsunami we apparently remember from a few years back. This road took us to Dhanushkodi - a fishing town - and beyond, past a sign that said "NO ENTRY", but at which the seeming gatekeeper told us it was OK to just walk by. So we walked past it, and the road just kept going, several times after we thought it looked as if it was almost ending. It took us past the end of the paved road, past the end of the gravel road, past the end of the packed mud road, past a completely sandy section to another mud road, and finally onto a beach at the very end, with nowhere else to go but into the sea. Perhaps we were hoping the bridge to Sri Lanka had already been completed. But it wasn't, so we would have to go back to Rameshwaram all the way.

We thought we would take our shoes off, splash around in the water a little bit, perhaps perform a few chants or prayers honoring the significance of the place (if not only its uniqueness), but we couldn't quite get to it. Just as we began thinking about how we should honor the moment and the accomplishment, we saw a white flashlight pointing in our direction, and slowly getting closer. My spidey sense triggered when I saw three seemingly-organized men, apparently fishermen, walking tentatively in our direction. They barely spoke any English words, but the dialogue, from our perspective, basically went like thism (hindi dialogue intentionally made up):

- "Chiku tanta ladla pladesh" (what the heck are you doing here?)
- We came walking from Rameshwaram, and we wanted to see the end of the road (gesturing to the near sea).
- "Tata li plaj chaku. Where you go?"
- Well, right after this, we're going to walk back to Rameshwaram (with finger walking gesture).
- "Now? Late, no taxi."
- That's ok, we'll just walk back to Rameshwaram.
- (They kinda look at each other, a bit puzzled, not quite believing us. Points to one of our plastic bags with a stick). "Pakila. He?" (What's in the bag?)
- Oh, we just have sandals (pointing to our feet). You know, to put on our feet.
- "Padukas!", my dad adds shouting, though I'm not sure which language that word is in. "I just want to put my feet at the end of the Hanuman bridge! Just a minute!", so he takes his shoes off and walks into the sea; begins chanting towards the full moon.
- (I open up the bags and show them. I show them the sandals and the towel inside).
- (They point to my backpack with the stick and kinda look like they want to open it). "You have biscuits?"
- I'm a bit puzzled, thinking they might be hungry, but we have no food. "No, we don't have any food (gesturing lack of capability with shrugged shoulders, shaking head, pursed lips, and upward palms). I think we have sugar. Do you want sugar?" (They don't seem interested at all).
- "Takela kamla lahala he. You, back to Rameshwaram?"
- Yes yes, we can go back now. Papi, ya nos regresamos?
- Sí, ya! Sólo dejame ponerme mis zapatos.

So a few minutes later, we're walking back on the road, but the three guys are kinda circling around us, between us, but I'm not sure what they're trying to do. If they wanted to rob us, they could've easily done it while we were standing at the end of the beach. But they just kinda hovered among us, a little intentionally annoyingly. Eventually my dad did get annoyed and told them "you, walk first, and we walk later, ok?", while we took a few steps behind them. They kinda looked at each other, and I thought his proposal was ill-timed, considering their apparent mistrust towards us (and relative overnumerousness). Luckily he then said "or maybe better, we walk first, and you walk later". That seemed better, and they let us walk on a bit faster than them. Then they could always keep an eye on us, if that's what they wanted.

So we walked ahead for about 5 minutes or so, at which point a short man with a thick mustache and also a fisherman's attire approached us pretty stealthily with some kind of bamboo stick, and stopped us on the road, telling us "hello, can I see your IDs please?" Still riddled with mistrust, I reluctantly showed him my passport. He said "I'm part of secret police", and I thought we had walked into a more complex situation than we were aware of. He asked us a few questions, verified we were from the USA as our passports said, then slid off into the night. He came back once more to ask us some other questions, then slid off again. Then one more time, and I wondered whether he was just verifying what we had told them, or was somehow looking for some kind of tip money - for letting us go or something. In any case, the third time he slid off for good, shouting "Go America!" or something, and we continued walking.

We still walked for about 10 more minutes, and I mentioned how a very tall cellphone tower we had seen on the way there was still not even visible at all. We both felt ready to walk the whole way back, but after a little while, an orange light began heading towards us, and out came 4 people, all of them excitedly asking us stuff, but this time in English (with marked indian accents).

It turns out the TucTuc driver whom we left waiting, who I had almost assumed had simply left after we didn't come back for hours on end, had notified the police about us (or they had found him), and they'd come searching for us. I recognized the driver only when he said, in a worried voice: "I told you, you walk only half an hour on the beach! I wait for you, and what time is it? It's past 8! I wait for you long time, police come!"

What we did not know at the time was that the place we were in was an area known for smuggling. Not sure what or whom was smuggled there, but we were at that time suspects for smuggling. "You're here at night, but it's forbidden! You come with us, we make a police enquiry!" Only at that point I understood what the faux-fishermen along the beach were doing. They were poking our bags, looking for smuggled goods (drugs? weapons? Dunno), but they didn't really need to open them, since they were relatively small (carry-on size).

I was understandably concerned that this situation might pose a problem for the rest of our night, but my dad seemed ecstatic. "We can ride with you back in the TucTuc? Oh, thank you, thank you!" And so we did. The police people asked us questions on the way back, mostly about where we were from, and what we were doing there, but they seemed almost certain we weren't smugglers at that point. Still, they eyed us with suspicion from time to time, and one of them told us "Sir, you shouldn't be out here at night. You should think of your own safety! Own safety!" I thought he was saying "unsafety", but now I get it.

We reached a first checkpoint, where the police people dismounted, and we were left with the driver and another guy I didn't know, who had been asking questions about our salaries back in the US. After we reached the point where the TucTuc driver had been waiting for us (about 15km away from the end of the road), the police people appeared again (apparently they just got into another car and followed us), and took all our pictures a few times. Me alone, my dad and I, then the driver and both of us. Apparently the driver was a suspect as well. Luckily though, the police wanted nothing more of us, and they dismissed all of us, at which point the TucTuc driver took off, back towards Rameswaram town proper.

When we were heading back, the driver complained for a while. "I'm in big trouble sir. Tomorrow I have to go to the police and make a declaration. My car, my license, I don't know what they'll do, sir". I was suddenly quite taken with the driver's point of view. No one had done anything wrong, but suspicion could cause him to get into some kind of blacklist. My dad was just plain happy, though. The TucTuc came back! This is a blessing! I told him "I'm concerned about the driver". He said "nah, come on, he just needs to make some kind of declaration. Just give him like 200 extra for the time". I thought his nonchalance was pretty rude to him, so I thought I'd just give him what he asked for.

Which was 1200 rupees. 1300, if we count the initial 100 we put in for "petrol". I thought the time and worry he used on us was well worth that. He dropped us off at an area with several hotels, and we ended up staying at Anandha Lodge. 700 a night for two people, bed well-big enough for both of us, and spots to charge our electronics. It even has a color TV - not that we use it. The place has a big fan and a white neon light, both of which stayed on for most of the night. Not a bad deal.

We're leaving Rameswaram today on the train at 11:50AM, and going back to Madurai to get the results of the Naadi readings. Afterwards we're training back all the way to Delhi if we like the timing of it, and if we can still have 3 full days left over staying at the Patal Buvaneshwar caves. Otherwise, we might just fly it back.